The Land of Not Quite Right

After over a year in the idea phase, I'm finally in Bahrain. One of my best friends whom I have known since we competed for first chair clarinet in 5th grade band, has been stationed here with her husband and children. Before I got sick last winter, I toyed with the idea of quitting my job in New Orleans, and coming out here to teach on base, and was then invited to come for the summer and nanny for her kids. Sounded like a good plan, but it wasn't able to come to fruition.

It was, however, the impetus for this last six months of adventure.

My ten week trip to Central America was the practice run for hemisphere-hopping. It was a success, so I finally planned a trip there. I flew from Bangkok after a month long trip in Southeast Asia with my friend Chris. Culture shock began in the Bangkok airport as thoebes and burkas replaced sarongs.

The flight to Dubai was pleasant, as was going through customs at the Dubai airport. The flight from Dubai to Bahrain however, was something else entirely. There were many children on the flight, none of them being parented. Children were climbing on the tops of the airplane seats, had all video games going, were running up and down the aisles. Going through customs was somewhat complicated as they wanted a direct address in Bahrain, which I didn't have. An hour later, I was through, and Jillene was there to pick me up.

Not far from the airport, Amwaj island is on the northeast coast of Bahrain. It's built on reclaimed land, sand from the gulf. It's a gated community of expats, wealthy Bahrainis, and Saudis with weekend homes (they come to the island over the bridge to drink). Jillene's villa is a spacious two level house with more bathrooms and couches than I could ever imagine using. The backyard overlooks a small swimming pool, which is steps away from the Persian gulf. The color of the gulf is milky blue, and set against the white sand and the white buildings, is absolutely stunning. 

Yet apart from the beautiful water and the white sand, there's not much else. It's so hot, and so dusty, that most activities take place indoors, in elaborate malls. It's no matter, though, as I came more for the company, and getting to know Noah, 6, and Mitchell, 4 was absolutely wonderful. 

Jillene and Kris refer to Bahrain as the land of not quite right, and it's apparent why. Burka-clad women shopping at Victoria's Secret, devout Saudi Muslims driving like mad to get to the island to drink like fish. And the beautiful homes all have little...quirks, even though most are almost brand new. European dish-drain cabinets located over the stove instead of the sink, open floor plans with loft-style staircases waiting for forehead impact, classes that 'start in April' but haven't. 

Jillene will be leaving the country in January, so I've lost interest in teaching here. But I'm really glad I was able to come out to visit before they left! 

From Sabai Dee to Sawasdee. Same same.

Sawasdee kaaaaaaaa...
Same same. Those of you who have traveled to this region of the world know exactly what I'm talking about. But how to explain to someone with no context? I'm going to give it a shot...
Me: How much is that sarong?
Local person: 350 baht
Me: ok, what about that purse?
Local Person: same same


Or

Me: are these the fresh spring rolls, or the fried ones?
LP: same same (hmm...)

Or
Me: I'm trying to get to _______. Should I take the bus, or a boat taxi?
LP: same same (or "yes", which is always helpful)

That's just a start. But you get the idea. It's used for anything to placate you so you think all deals are equal, but better if purchased from the person you're speaking to.

This was my third time to visit Thailand, so I was ready for the same same, ready for the always wet feet, ready for the squatty potties, ready for good food (which unfortunately didn't happen), and ready for the beauty of Krabi province. I was even ready for the crowds and oppressive humid heat that is the high season. What I wasn't prepared for were the inflated prices, and the growth, and the amount of Russian tourists, language, and food that was not present in my last trips.

Railay beach, aesthetically, is the most beautiful beach I have ever been to in my life. Limestone karsts climb out of turquoise waters that seem an unreal color and earthly combination. My first experience was ten years ago, staying in a tree house with no AC, and so many holes it seemed more like we were just staying in the tree itself. Food was spicy and good beach side, and everything except the more than five star resort of Rayavadee was simple, rustic, and relatively inexpensive. Well, as in Vietnam, now that the visa requirement has been lifted for Russian citizens, and direct flights have been established from Moscow to saigon and Bangkok, the tourist population has doubled in these parts. This is great for everyone, except those of us who wanted to stay in simple, rustic, relatively inexpensive digs. Now, simple and rustic costs 50$ a night, and our tree house has been converted to a 'resort' with ac cabanas for over 100$ a night. And all day, the small peninsula, only reachable by boat, is awash with the sound of jackhammers, as new hotels are being built on every possible piece of land available. It is still possible to get those cheap simple rustic places, but instead of being a short jaunt to the magnificent beaches, they are a hike away in the middle of the jungle. Equally awesome if you're a nature person, but quite a hike to the beaches and restaurants.

To be fair, my last trip to Thailand, 8 years ago, was not only during the slow summer season, but also six months after the tsunami. The trip was planned around a volunteer opportunity in Ranong province and on Phi Phi island (which is when this blog was started. If you'd like to read about that experience, go back to the first several entries in 2005). At that time, as well as two years prior, the exchange rate was 39-43 Thai baht to the dollar. On this trip, it was 27-30. I hope this means that Thailand has improved financially, and that this has trickled down to the people. A week wasn't enough time to investigate that. I did have a moment of wanting to go to Phi Phi, just to see the improvement and changes. And then I started perusing TripAdvisor, remembered my first experience there, and thought better of it. The beauty is astounding, maybe even more so than Railay, but the parties and overcrowding of young people, and buckets of booze, and inflated prices for crap shacks deterred me. After seeing the growth and crowds in Krabi and Phuket, I can only imagine what it's like there now.

In Railay, we stayed on the east side of the peninsula, where the mangroves reach the sea wall. During high tide, a step off the cement walkway and you're in the Andaman sea. During low tide, a step off is onto rocks and sand, for a good ways- maybe 750 feet- to the water's edge. This is the more populated side of the peninsula, and where most of the ferries arrive. There is no pier, and it's clearly too shallow to bring the ferries close to shore. So they stop a good way out, and a long tail boat comes beside it. People climb from the bigger to smaller boat, luggage is handed down, and the long tail takes you as far as they can. Then everyone hops out, into the water, grabs their luggage and walks to shore. This is always an entertaining thing to watch as some people have traditional suitcases rather than backpacks, and end up carrying them over their heads.

Chris and I found a place with a room for 2 nights, relatively far from 'the action' of east Railay. We had a cabana, overlooking jungle and mangrove, fan cooled with mosquito nets. We had a deck out the back where we were greeted with wildlife, and...ahem...gifts from wildlife, and we loved it. One of the special things about both Railay and Phi Phi, is the absence of cars and motorbikes. Sounds divine, and peaceful. And in many ways it is. But no cars means transport is long tail boats, with very loud motors, for at least 18 hours a day. This was, by far, my favorite place we slept in our short time in Thailand,

The next afternoon, Chris accompanied me to nearby Ao Nang, another beach resort area closer to the airport for my upcoming journey to Bahrain. I flew business class, which turned out to be the same as first class, from Bangkok to Dubai. It was fabulous! A new experience for me, and I think if I can swing it with my miles, I will fly back to the states in the same manner. Whenever that is.